France a beautiful country: August 16 - 31, 1876

Albert Memorial, Edinburgh

Wednesday, August 16, 1876. Was waked up at 8.30 A.M. by the booming of cannon to announce the Queen’s arrival to unveil the Albert Memorial tomorrow. Went after breakfast to the Antiquarian Museum & National Picture Gallery. Then after coming to hotel & lunching, we took a tramway (street car) & went to Portobello, a charming little watering place on the sea-shore. Came back home at 4 P.M. Took a walk this evening to see the decorations of the city.
 
Thursday, August 17, 1876. “The Unveiling of the Albert Memorial by The Queen”!  We went at 2 P.M. to our windows that we had engaged to see the Queen & Prince Leopold & Duke of Connaught & Princess Beatrice. [Albert’s untimely death of typhoid fever in 1861, at the age of 42, was mourned by all, and until her own death in 1901, Victoria never fully recovered by the loss of her “beloved Albert.” Cities and towns throughout the empire rushed to commemorate statues to his memory; the dedication of the statue that Ada and her family witnessed was in Edinburgh.]
 
Friday, August 18, 1876. We started by the 10.30 A.M. train to London this morning in a Pullman drawing room car. Mrs. Pomeroy and family left by the 10 A.M. train for York. Very natural to be on the Pullman cars again. Have as yet rec’d no letters from home. Arrived at 10 P.M. (behind time) at London. At Fenton’s Hotel, 63 St. James St.
 
Saturday, August 19, 1876. Took a carriage at 10 A.M. & went all around city, to St. Paul’s, Westminster Palace & the Houses of Parliament & Westminster Abbey, Hyde Park &ccc. Took dinner in our private sitting room at 7 P.M. Left note at Mr. Bell’s office that we were in town. Got 6 letters from home. Glorious!!
 
Sunday, August 20, 1876. Took a carriage and went to Templar’s Church to attend service but lo! & behold! it was closed, so we went to Westminster where they had a very nice service and holy communion. Have heard nothing from Bell.
 
Monday, August 21, 1876. Mama & Monte went out to try & get better apartments. Were very, very successful at Royal Cambridge Hotel, 12a George St. in Hanover Square. Went to see Mde. Tussaud’s Wax Works—perfectly grand—saw block on which Marie Antoinette & Louis XVI were beheaded.
 

The Crystal Palace, London

Tuesday, August 22, 1876. Went out shopping all morning and met Mr. Pomeroy & Mr. Burnet who had just come from Edinburgh. Their family was at Fenton’s, in the same apartment which we had occupied whilst there. Also met one of the passengers whom we had met on the ship, McKuaine, the Australian—greeted us most cordially. Went in afternoon to the Crystal Palace, a ride by rail of one quarter of an hour. Palace very splendid—some beautiful & very celebrated paintings.
 
Wednesday, August 23, 1876. All went to the Tower—very interesting. Saw Raleigh’s prison, old block on which Lord

Kilmarnock &c &c were executed & place where Mary Queen of Scots, Lady Jane Grey & Anne Bolyn were beheaded—Traitor’s Gate over 600 years old &c &c. Went then over London Bridge to Zoological Gardens & staid till 6 P.M., very much pleased. Monkeys were splendid. Came home & Mama & the Countess de Montaign sent letter from Grant [President Ulysses S. Grant, a friend and neighbor from St. Louis] to Pierrepont, the Minister of U.S., who is in our house. They called on them—there is a young gent. 17—son of Pierrepont. Went to British Museum & saw the original Magna Charta.
 
Thursday, August 24, 1876. Mama & Monte have gone out. Mamie gone to Greta’s at Fenton’s Hotel. Mama has just come back with the news that Fred Bell, other brother & mother are at Brighton and will not be back till Monday, Mr. Bell informed her. My new seal skin cloak came—much pleased. Also my ulster for traveling. Went to Windsor Castle by rail—about three-quarters of hour. Castle splendid. Saw all state apartments & chapel of Geo. III. Mama did not go to Windsor.
 
Friday, August 25, 1876. Started at 11 A.M. for Paris. Reached Folkestone, from where we sailed across channel at 1.30 P.M. & took boat (rather small) for Bologne, France. Had a comparatively calm passage of two hours, but I came just within an ace of being quite sea-sick. Reached Bologne at 3.30 & took train for Paris. France a beautiful country. Arrived at Paris at 8.20 P.M. & had a very smooth time with the customhouse officers, who opened but one trunk & then let us go. Proceeded then to Hotel Liverpool, 11 Rue Castiglione.
 

l'Arc de Triomphe, by Antoine Blanchard

Saturday, August 26, 1876. Breakfasted at nine. Pleased quite with hotel but every one recommends keeping house in apartments. Saw Mr. Seligman (whom we met on ship) at his office. Very cordial & nice. Drove round Paris a little, through l’Arc de Triomphe in Champs Elyseés. I feel now that I can say with every one from my heart—“Belle, belle Paris.”  It is indeed the loveliest city in all the world!!! No letters here for us.
 
Sunday, August 27, 1876. Started to go to an American chapel but not finding one, we went to the famous Madeleine. Church grand & music very grand also, but it does not seem much like a house of worship & I did not like the service. It being a great fête [holiday] day at Versailles when all the fountains play, including the L’eau de Neptune, we ordered a carriage to go there but it came too late & instead, we went to another fête at St. Cloud & saw the Palace in ruins. Very beautiful grounds. Went at night on the Champs Elysees.
 
Monday, August 28, 1876. Today we have decided upon apartments in Avenue Josephine. Very roomy & nice well-kept house. Also registered at John Munroe & Co. No letters for us but found out that Harry Ames was at Grand Hotel. Went there & left card & then visited several schools. Liked best Mde. Bascans. Also went to M. Sevoin’s school for boys—where George Derby went. George’s furlough is up today at 2 P.M. Came home and found that Harry had called—too bad not to see him.
 
Tuesday, August 29, 1876. Moved to our apartments in the morning—55 Avenue Josephine. Very nice keeping house—two girls, Adelle & Marie, & Monte keep house. Harry called—he is not much changed, better looking I think—side whiskers, he does not go home till October. Very nice because we need a beau besides my mammoth brother. Took a walk & went to the top of l’Arch de Triumph to see the sun-set—beautiful view.
 
Wednesday, August 30, 1876. Mama and I took cab & went to Monroe’s where we found two letters for us & one for me from my precious Lily. It did my heart good to get such a dear, loving letter from her. Went to several schools also. Mde. Tabol’s—very nice indeed. Inventory taken of the apartments. Rainy. Mr. Washburn, U.S. Minister, called but did not see him.
 

Cirque des Champs Elyseés

Thursday, August 31, 1876. Monte & I took cab & went to Rothschilds, Seligmans & Monroes for letters. Found two at Monroe’s. All except me went out at about 2 P.M. to decide upon Mde. Cordier’s school & to ride—did not get back till 6.30 P.M. After dinner at 8.30 P.M. we went to the Cirque des Champs Elyseés—a very good circus but not so fine as our American ones.