The human heart: July 16-31, 1879

Wednesday, 16 July. Rained almost all day. I feel sick and have not been out of the house any farther than the pavilion.

At 7 P.M. Mr. Bert Bowen had prepared a charming surprise for us, and had ordered ice-cream, cake and May-bowle (my weakness). To surprise him in our turn, we presented ourselves with light gloves, fans and flowers in our hair. The supper was, I think, the jolliest one I ever partook of. Every possible health was drunk. Tante Clio brought off Mr. Bowen’s health in a very charming poem at the same time amusing and touching as it referred to Mr. Bowen’s school days at their house five years ago; his happy return to them and to German two weeks ago, "a better and a wiser man" and lastly to his parting tomorrow out of our little circle back again to America. He was very touched and I admire him for it and thanked Tante Clio heartily. We then drank to Mama's health, to Henry's and to ours.

Our boisterous gaiety did not quite forsake us however and I began to feel the usual drowsy effects of the May-bowle to such an extent that when I got up to make a speech to thank Mr. B. for his thoughtfulness I believe the words came thickly out and my speech was not as clear as it might have been. I have tried hard to remember what I said. I believe it was received with enthusiasm. I was not in a state to be sure of anything.

After supper we had a charade (Herbert, the first syllable Herr, the second Bert) and a great many other funny things. Everyone seemed desirous of showing him or herself off in the best & most amusing light, and everyone said all the funny jokes he or she had ever heard, or even imagined. In short, it was a very jolly, noisy soirée [evening] and after exerting myself for an hour to be as amiable and look as wide-a-wake (which I wasn’t) as possible, I concluded a nap would not be a bad idea and I dropped off and lay warm in my bed for the space of 15 minutes, feeling greatly refreshed when I returned to our small dining room, transformed for the occasion to a salon. It was growing late however and heads were nodding, so, after a hearty hand-shake all around, we separated for the night and were gathered into the arms of the big-hearted Morpheus [the Roman god of dreams and sleep]. Perhaps to dream that Tante Clio was sitting placidly on a pyramid of ice cream, reading poetry out of a great book with chocolate backs, perhaps to dream that we were drowning in a sea of May-bowle with strawberries floating on the top. Tante Clio’s toast:
 

Parting Toast to Mr. Bert Bowen.

 

My toast today is a word of farewell

Because our dear Bert wants to leave us.

He who was faithful to us for five years,

Who wrote us many a beautiful letter,

Faithfully returned to us

And proved to be a "good boy."

He hasn’t forgotten the times

When he was given little to eat

But he always laughed heartily

When he was kidding around.

We also laughed, knowing his good heart.

We shared joy and pain with him.

He was a great joy to the aunties

And both laughed heartily

When recently our beloved son

Read to us a new edition

By the clever boy who has grown tall,

Whom we loved in former times

And who during this time of separation

Turned into a wiser Bert.

He actually came back,

Conquered all hearts immediately

And everybody who met him there

Join us in saying farewell.

Because he always loved to travel,

His travels may soon lead him back to us,

And each new encounter

Will be as dear to us as this one now.

That we may always present him proudly

And always call him our only one.

May he come as a merry student,

Or as Vice President,

Or as a newspaper editor,

As husband or as a permanent flirt,

He always comes back to us as our Bert.

                                                                                                  (M.L.)

Thursday, 17 July. Mr. Bowen left today at 3.30 P.M. in company with Tante Gretchen, who will remain with him a day in Dresden. Parting really very touching! He expects to sail next Sunday for America from Bremen. Has been raining but cleared up towards evening.

 

Friday, 18 July. This afternoon has been lovely—took advantage of beautiful weather to play croquet near the Kurhaus but were overtaken by a shower in the middle of a game. Tante Gretchen came back from Dresden at 4 P.M.

A postilion chaise.

This evening was a concert in Kurhaus to which we all went at 8.30 P.M. Gredel sang two songs (one aria from Figaro, and one from Elias) and Margo played her Impromptu from Chopin rather well but stumbled over the last part. Mlle. Q, Edger, Mamie and I left the others to meet Henry at the gate of our house, who had arrived in the post [a post or postillion chaise, so named because there is no driver; rather, the horse is saddled in the traces and ridden by a "postillion" who serves as driver.] He is looking splendidly and has grown perceptibly since we last saw him.

Tuesday, 22 July. This afternoon Mlle. Quillard, Mamie and I went with Frau Waldeck and daughter to Schneesberg and had a lovely time. On our return found that Herr v. Dzimsbowski had arrived and we all supped together at the Gast-Hof [Guest House] and walked home at 10.30 P.M. [Flowers pasted to the page, with the captions: "from the Schneesberg" and "Nini’s & my ‘snake excursion.’"]

Friday, 25 July. This afternoon at 4 P.M. we were joined at the croquet ground by v. Dziembowski & Collard and played croquet. M. D. left for Dresden at 5 and Tante Gretchen & Gredel accompanied him as far as Hermsdorf. Came home all famished for supper.

Saturday, 26th July. This morning at 7 A.M., Mlle. Q. and Edgar went to Königstein to meet Herr Sproesser—they all arrived at 10.30 A.M. Sproesser is sunburnt from the Academie Reise & altogether does not look quite well but is otherwise as gay and witty as ever. All went to Kurhaus and Gredel sang. After dinner we all took shawls and went to the brook in the forest and laid ourselves down under the shadowy pines. Sproesser was very restless!

In evening concert & ball at Kurhaus. The two Königstein officers (Herr v. Laffert & Markowsky) called on us in the afternoon and made themselves very agreeable in the evening. Margo & Gredel in white, Mamie in green and I in gray & red net. Danced and had a delightful time. Elsa was ill and could not join us. Oh! joy! Just before the first dance received a telegram from Mama (arrived safely at Liverpool). Danced with such a light heart after hearing that. Cotillion favors very pretty. A great many people were there. Very hot! Sproesser dances well but unwillingly. Something puzzles me! All three officers walked home with us. Dear little Laffert as sweet and charming as ever. Everyone admired Mamie’s feet. I take such pride in my sister on all such occasions. She excites everyone’s interest. Sproesser pleads headache and declares he wall not be able to sleep. [Flowers pasted to the page with the caption, "Mignonettes I wore in my hair and rose from my bouquet!!!"]

Sunday, 27 July. Slept well and arose late. Elsa still in bed. Le mot de l’enigma!! Vous avez mesprietes! [The word which is a riddle!! You have misunderstood me!] Raining very steadily and promises to continue the whole day. Herr Sproesser made his appearance after breakfast & Mlle Q. entertained him in the pavilion until we were all ready to go down. Learned he was out and walking over since 4 A.M. All went to hear Gredel sing in the Kurhaus. Has rained all day.

Monday, 28th July. At 3 P.M. we all started on an excursion to the "Dürre Brila" about 2 hours from here where the Brila is dry in summer. Sproesser, Mr. Hoffmann & Mr. Collard joined us making 13 in party. After much waiting and several of the party not wishing to come without a carriage & no carriage appearing, Tante Gretchen, Gredel, Mr. Hoffman, Henry, Mamie, Edgar and I started afoot—my back aching terribly but too proud to stay behind.

After walking an hour reached a place where we rested, not knowing which road to take for "Dürre Brila". Were joined here unexpectedly by all the others, some afoot and 4 in a small one-horse carriage in which we all took turns in riding. The scenery is beautiful and all of us were jolly. Reached a "Gast-Haus" [guest house] just on the other side of the Bohemian frontier and sat under the trees and ate bread & butter & Bohemian cheese!!! Here we sat an hour and were very jolly, each person having an inexhaustible supply of jokes on hand. Came home just as the moon was appearing, tired out but fully satisfied with our excursion. Collard is dreamy & sentimental, being very much in love with Gredel, who treats him coolly. All the rest of us in excellent health.

Tuesday, 29 July. We all went to Germsdorf, joined by Hoffman & Sproesser, and drank milk & coffee in the little white Gast-haus. Came home at 7 and Sproesser staid for supper. After supper, as the night was so heavenly, we went out to walk in the silvery moon-shine. Tante Gretchen, not feeling very well, left us not far from the Kurhaus and proposed to wait there on a bench with Elsa & Gredel until we finished our promenade. Thereupon, Mlle. Q., Mamie, Margo, Henry, Sproesser, Edgar & I went up on the hill over the Kurhaus and, finding a few stones to sit on, admired the moon at our ease. Ten minutes after, when we came back to the bench where we had left Tante Gretchen & the girls, no one was to be found and we returned without them and had a scolding on reaching home for having staid out so late. Such is Life!

Wednesday, 30 July. All had expected to go to Schneeberg today but a great confusion about the carriages ensuing, it was given up. After dinner Mlle Q., Sproesser, Margo & I took a big shawl which we spread under the trees in the forest, & Mlle Q. read Lermontoff & a little of Manprat to us. Delightful time. Nini & Sproesser left us after a while & Margo & I schwermed [obsessed on the subject of love] alone and ate ginger bread until Sproesser came to fetch us for supper. After supper we all went for another moon-light walk but Nini, Sproesser, Henry, Margo, Edgar and I soon got separated from the others (purposely???!) and came home alone.

Thursday, 31 July. Nini, Sproesser, Mamie, Margo, Henry, Edgar and I spent our morning in the woods. I sewed a while on my blue linen dress and then lay down on the shawl and slept or rather dozed. Sproesser followed my wise example and also partook of the shawl, while Nini finished what I had begun on my dress and sang. Thus we passed a delightful morning until dinner time.

In the evening, dance at the Kurhaus. We did not start before 8.30 P.M. as we had a thunderstorm, but after much trouble to procure a carriage which made two tours to get us all at the Kurhaus, we finally found ourselves in the middle of the Polonaise [a stately, march-like Polish dance, consisting primarily of a promenade of couples] with Laffert & Markowski, Hoffmann, Collard & Sproesser. Tante Gretchen, Margo, Henry and Edgar staid at home. As we arrived in the rain, we found all our gentlemen acquaintances awaiting us with anxiety on the piazza of the Kurhaus as they were afraid the storm would prevent our coming. All seem to envy Sproesser who is always with us and acts more like a brother to us than a simple acquaintance. We all danced to our hearts’ content and came home in the officers’ carriage which they kindly offered us, v. Laffert driving with Nini, Elsa, Mamie & me first and then returning to bring Tante Clio and Gredel.

I had been unusually gay the whole evening but towards the last, as I felt I was soon to say adieu [farewell] to someone I have learned to call a friend, adieu perhaps & probably forever!—became quieter. Ah! The human heart is the only problem one will never solve—never!!!



 

A beau garçon: May 1 - November 26, 1879

Thursday, 1 May, 1879. En voyage [During the Trip]. Frl. Maria Lemcke, Violette Cass, Marguerite Quatremain and I left Berlin at 8.30 for the Ramin’s wedding. Arrived in Stettin at 12 M. and spent the afternoon with Tante Clio’s brother, Professor Lemcke and played with the children who are all charming and drank coffee and maitrank [a white wine punch flavored with sweet woodruff, sugar and brandy also known as "May-bowle.] Left Stettin at 4.15 P.M. and arrived at Granibon at 5 where we found an elegant open carriage with four horses awaiting us. Enchanted with the country. Herr & Frau v. Ramin, their Excellencies the v. Bergers and the young fiancés greeted us warmly. Received a telegram from my dear Mama announcing a rough passage, but safe arrival in New York. Drank coffee and then went to our rooms to dress a little for supper. After supper young Herr v. Ramin came and we all danced. Went to bed at 11 P.M., all four in our tiny room, where there is only place for our beds, one washstand and a clock. We were 20 at table.

 
Friday, 2 May, 1879. After breakfast took a walk with Frl. Gertrude v. B., her cousin, Frl. v. Köller-Banner, Marguerite and Violette. Also played croquet. Dined at 2 P.M. Frau v. Ramin made a very touching speech wishing the young house burger [head of the household] much prosperity. Tears were in every one’s eyes. Frau v. R. is very sad that she is to lose her dear Sophie, who has always been both friend and daughter to her. The civil marriage is to be performed today at 4 P.M. in a village not far from here but none of the guests will assist. All the ladies changed their dresses for dinner today but we, having brought but four dresses with us, were unable to do so. The fiancés seem very happy—one never sees one without the other. She is charming in every way. He is also very gentlemanly and not at all bad looking if he would only not part his hair in the back. Their Excellencies are both so amiable and Herr v. Ramin is not half as bad as I had been taught to expect. I find him even very gallant—he always has a great many compliments for the young ladies. We danced tonight. Two gentlemen arrived.

Saturday, 3 May, 1879. Arrived late for breakfast. At 12 M. were all dressed to receive the guests who were to come. At 12 exactly the whole Second Dragoon regiment from Swedt arrived with three officers, wives, Frau von Kohr, Countess Brûges & Frau von Bothmar. The officers all very swell. While the presentations were being made in the salon, I felt so very weak as I had not had a mouthful to eat since early breakfast, that Margo, Violette and I went and refreshed ourselves in the dining room with some sandwiches, which I nearly choked over according to the extreme rapidity with which I was obliged to eat them. Then followed a very grand ceremonial dinner, during which many toasts were made in honor of the fiancés and the "international brides maids." We were 45 at dinner. Herr von Kohr took me in to dinner and I sat between him and the fiancé Herr von Berger. I found von Kohr charming and got on splendidly with him in German. Was somewhat disappointed afterwards when I learned he was married. His wife speaks English beautifully and I find her very amiable but a little fast. After dinner we all danced and played games in the garden and my slippers became full of sand. Seven musicians. At 7 P. M. dressed for the Polterabend [the traditional German wedding-eve party, including among other things the symbolic breaking of crockery]. Wore a blue tulle and satin dress with a little tulle cap and apron with pink and blue bows, as a Parisian modiste [hat maker], and presented a white tulle cap to the bride. Marguerite’s costume was as a Picardienne, and Violette made an excellent cook. We all repeated poetry composed by Frl. Marie Lemcke. The sisters and brothers of the bride represented the Golden Isles and Green Weddings respectively. The officers’ wives played a short comedy in charming costumes. We then danced until 1 o’clock. I enjoyed myself to the fullest extent. Afterwards went downstairs to drink tea and then to bed, with aching feet and torn dresses. [Pasted to the page, a blue satin ribbon & pink silk flower, with the caption: "Flowers & ribbon taken from the dress I wore."]

Sunday, 4 May, 1879. Margo and I took a walk in the garden directly after breakfast where the officers soon after joined us. At 11 A.M. we were all dressed for the wedding. I wore a black grenadine over pink silk & Margo a blue silk and tulle. Herr von Müllern took me to the church. The procession looked very picturesque winding through the garden to the little stone church. Had a very touching sermon. After we reached the house and the congratulations were made, we had another long dinner. I had Herr v. Müllern on the one side and von Armin on the other and as they are both very handsome and entertaining, I had a jolly time. So many toasts were offered that I am afraid several of the gentlemen were not quite themselves at the end of the dinner. We then loitered around on the piazzas and in the salons and also danced a little downstairs until 6 o’clock when we went upstairs in the grand salon and danced, after a supper which v. Armin, v. Renss, v. Büllorn, Frl. Lemcke, Margo, Gretchen v. Köller-Banner, Violette and I ate together in the front parlor. At last arrived the moment for the Swedt regiment to depart and the gentlemen went very unwillingly. Finally at the last moment v. Armin declared he would not leave without drinking once more to my health and he sent for 3 bottles of beer & of course finished just in time to jump in the last wagon and be off. They all left (6 wagons full) in the midst of hurrahs. Although somewhat downhearted at the departure of the largest & most interesting part of the masculine colony, we still found courage to go once more to the grand salon upstairs and dance with the other gentlemen until 10.30 P.M. I went to bed and left the others still dancing but I really was nearly dead with fatigue.

Monday, 5 May, ’79. Violette got up at 8 A.M. to see Herr Michacht off but Margo and I, more sensible, stayed in bed until 10. Violette and I played croquet with Gretchen v. K-B until dinner. After dinner the rest of the young gentlemen left. Played croquet and walked in the garden the rest of the day. In the evening had a little music in the parlor and went early to bed. Violette is ill—sick to her stomach.

Tuesday, 6 May, ’79. Violette was ill all night and none of us were able to sleep much. Packed all morning and in the afternoon played croquet with the children. The Köller-Banners & Herr v. Rekow left this morning before we got up. At 3.30 P.M. we left. Everyone seemed really sorry to have us go. At Stettin we waited an hour at the station and Professor Lemcke & two of the children came down to see us. Secured a railway carriage alone with two middle-aged gentlemen. At Passow, Herrs v. Armin, v. Müllern & v. Renss came to meet us. They had ridden 11 English miles on horseback to spend a tiny five minutes with us! We were glad to see each other and felt very flattered. All paired off well with the exception of one small misfortune!!! At the station after Passow, Herr v. Kohr, who, on account of military service had not been able to come to see us with the others, sent me a box of flowers & a note by his servant. We reached Berlin at 9 P.M. and one hour later were home in the Grossbeerenstrasse where we found the others well and dying to hear about our visit at Schmagerow. [Flowers pasted to the page with the caption: "Flowers sent me by Herr v. Kohr."] [Mamie had her own thoughts on the subject of Ada’s participation in this wedding. From a letter to her mother that she copied into her diary: "Well, the girls have come back from the wedding, as you already know, as Sis wrote day before yesterday, and they amused themselves to their heart’s content, having carried away, as it seems, a great many hearts with them. Of course, Sister was the most admired, as she always is, with her sweet and angelic expression of figure, and her fascinating manners. Margot is very charming in society, as well as in private, and not at all coquette."]

19th century Schweizermühle

Tuesday, 1 July, 1879. Mlle. Quillard, Miss Margareth Lemcke [Tante Gretchen], Mamie and I left Berlin this morning at 9 for Schweizermühle [a spa town that barely exists today], Miss Marie Lemcke, Edgar, Marguerite Quatremain and the maid servant having left yesterday afternoon. Very amusing international traveling companions carried on a lively conversation for the most part political and found afterwards that one of the gentlemen who had struck us very particularly and to whom we had listened with such attention was the courier of the Princess Radziwill. Our disgust was great! Arrived at Dresden at 12 M. and took coffee and bread. At 3 arrived at Königstein, which is a very beautiful and picturesque rock upon which stands a fortress commanding a magnificent view. Schweizermühle. Took a carriage here and reached our charming little villa which is heavenly situated and stands almost alone in a cozy little part of the valley. About an hour afterwards Tante Marie, Margo and Edgar waved the American and German flags at us. After a small lunch and short rest, we rolled in the long grass and drank the fresh icy spring water from our hands. This heavenly spot is primitive in the truest and most charming sense of the word. C’est un petit paradis! [It is a little paradise!] We are also the proud possessors of two pavilions where we intend to spend the most of our time. Our proprietor has the greatest number of children and the little people run about and find us as amusing as they would a menagerie of wild animals. There are also two cats in the house and the sweetest little kitten imaginable—therefore my happiness is complete.

Thursday, 3 July, ’79. This morning before breakfast, a young American friend of the Lemckes arrived, whose name is Mr. Bert Bowen and who is a beau garçon [handsome boy] and promises to be quite supportable. We took a long walk and towards evening, sat in the pavilion and Mr. Bowen sang and accompanied himself on a guitar. His voice is very fine. He has been cultivating it in Italy during this last year. This afternoon we all went to the grounds around the Kurhaus and had a game of croquet. [The Kurhaus, literally, the "cure-house," is the central building in a resort spa which houses its springs and baths, and often serves as concert hall and gathering place.]

Friday, 4 July. It is raining this morning but we hope it may stop before noon. Tante Gretchen, Mr. Bowen, Mamie, Margo, Edgar and I had a glorious ramble this morning of two hours or more as the rain had ceased and the sun made his tardy appearance. We all behave like children and run and romp to our hearts content. Drank to the American Independence at dinner today.

Wednesday, 9 July. This morning at 9, Mlle. Quillard and I went to Dresden to sign a power of attorney Mama sent me. We arrived in Dresden at 10.30 and went immediately to see Natalie whom we found with Mr. Hammond just ready to go to play croquet with the Leavitts; but they put it off and came instead with us to the U.S. Consul. Mr. Mason and Mr. Hammond witnessed the signing of my document. We went afterwards to the Galleries and lost ourselves in admiration before the Sistine Madonna, the Magdalene and the Banishment of Agar by Abraham. Nathi and Jack took us home through the most select part of Dresden and we dined with them alone in the parlor where a table had been set for us and Nathi’s maid waited on us. Mr. Hammond looks very ill. Nathalie is thin but seems happy and in better spirits than last winter. Nathi introduced me to a Mrs. Catherwood of California, who knows the Lows very well, who introduced Dr. & Mrs. Lustin. The house where Nathalie is staying seems to be very pleasant and scarcely seems like a boarding house. Jack & Nathalie came with us to the depot. We left on the 4 o’clock P.M. train. Back in Schweizermühle at 6.30 P.M.

Thursday, 10 July, ’79. This afternoon there was a concert at the Kurhaus to which we all went dressed very swell. Our hearts rejoiced to see several uniforms among the audience. At 8 o’clock there was a hop in the big salle [hall] and we danced until 10.30. Two young officers made themselves very agreeable by their attentions. The cotillion was quite a success and the favors were really pretty. We all danced in little paper caps of all colours. Monsieur Bert (as we call Mr. Bowen) was in fear of being asked to dance during the cotillion as we had threatened to invite him to dance with us to tease him. He is a brave, generous, good boy but he will not be perfect until he learns how to dance. The two young officers are stationed at Königstein. One of them is really very charming. His name is v. Laffert and he is from Hanover. A young boyish blond fellow with such an honest expression. [Pasted to the page is a stamped gold foil and green satin ribbon Maltese cross, with the caption: "Schweizermühle cotillion favor!"]

Saturday, 12 July. Gredel Lemcke and her sister Else arrived today. Tante Gretchen and M. Bert went to meet them at Königstein. An Englishman by the name of Imerson, wife and daughter came in and had a chat with Tante Clio and myself this morning. We found them very pleasant.

 

Monday, 14 July. All went to see theatricals in the Kurhaus by actors from Dresden, who by the way acted dreadfully ~ very primitive, excessively so. Played three small German pieces and spoke such a frightful German that my ears tingle to think of it now. 

Tuesday, 15 July. This afternoon, Mamie, Edgar, Mlle. Marguerite, Mr. Bowen and I took a carriage and drove to the fortress of Königstein. The drive lasted an hour and was "over hill and dale." At the immense gate of the fort, we sent in our names and asked for Herr v. Laffert, who had kindly given us such instructions and offered to show us over the fort. He soon after came, looking very young, fresh, and evidently very glad and flattered to see us.

We commenced our rounds. Soon after, the other officer whom we had met at the ball joined us. The fortress is the grandest and strangest I ever saw and utterly impregnable. We saw several places where prisoners had thrown themselves over the wall. One Englishman committed suicide here about eighty years ago. One of the most remarkable things in the fort was the great well, 600 feet deep, from which all the inmates of the fort are supplied with water. We tasted it and found it excellent. The officers had prepared coffee and cake for us in a charming tower-like room, which formed a corner of the fort and stood on the rock itself. This room was elegantly furnished in the antique style, and in the 17th century, during a festival at the fortress, a page had become tipsy and got out of one of the windows and had lain down on a rock directly under the window, which overhung the precipice. He thought he was going to his bed. The people, soon after seeing this, bound him to the rock securely with cords so that he should not fall and all gathered around beating drums and blowing trumpets until he awoke and gazed with fright into the abyss below him, the people laughing and mocking at him above. We spent about two hours walking around. The gentlemen were so amiable and agreeable and made everything enjoyable for us. They accompanied us to our carriage and we drove away eating cherries in the midst of bows and hopes of a speedy "au revoir" [farewell]. Were very jolly and congenial coming home, to the extent that we found the time passed much too quickly and ordered the coachman to drive very slowly "as we thought the horses must be tired." Arrived home in best of spirits and, at supper, all drank to the health of the two officers of Königstein. [Leaf pasted to the page, with the caption: "Leaf plucked by the charming v. Laffert and divided among Mamie, Margo and me."] [Visitors to the 13th century fortress of Königstein today can still hear the tale of Heinrich, the hapless page boy; illustration above by Anna Maria Freiin von Öer, 1845-1929.]


 



 


 

 

 

 

 

 

1877 - 1879: The Missing Years

Late in 1997, I received a message on my answering machine. A woman, identifying herself as Barbara Aiken from Silver Springs, Maryland, wanted to talk to me—about Ada. Intrigued and excited, I returned her phone call immediately and discovered a living relation.

Barbara Aiken’s husband Chris is a direct descendant of Ada’s sister Mary —Mamie. Having taken an interest in her husband’s genealogy, Barbara had gone looking in St. Louis and the tiny township of Elsah, Illinois, where we have already accompanied Ada in the spring of 1876. The village of Elsah was founded in 1853 by Ada and Mamie’s maternal grandfather, Gen. James Semple; the Semple, Ames and Turner families, each in their turn, had established substantial country residences on the bluffs overlooking the Mississippi.

By this time I too had done my share of poking around St. Louis and Elsah. The good people of Elsah suggested that Barbara, in her pursuit of family history, might want to be in touch with that woman in New Hampshire who had Ames/Turner diaries.

In 1890, Barbara told me, Mamie Ames was married to Wayman Crow Cushman, nephew of a preeminent nineteenth century actress, Charlotte Cushman. Mamie and Wayman had two sons, Henry and Robert. Henry married Ann Adine Lumaghi (hence the Lumaghi passport in the box with the diaries). Henry and Ann were Barbara’s husband’s maternal grandparents.

Then Barbara gave me the most unexpected piece of information, to which I have already alluded: in 1936, some of Mamie’s own girlhood diaries, those covering the period from 1876 to 1880, were published by Scribner under the title She Wrote It All Down.

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From the time the family left for Europe in 1876 until 1880 when they returned to St. Louis, Mamie kept her own faithful account of their travels and education. A mere "child" of twelve at the beginning of this period, her experiences mirrored and expanded upon Ada’s writings, filling in gaps the contents of which I could only infer from later mention. Not only could I now corroborate spellings and fill in a host of question marks, I could learn how the family viewed Ada herself, at least through Mamie’s eyes. Barbara most kindly sent me a copy of the book. She would later provide me with yet another of Ada’s journals.

 

Included with the book was a contemporary review from the Christian Science Monitor. It read, in part: "Her [Mamie’s] diary is doubly delightful, in that while it is depicting an era in which there were manners and conventions more circumspect than those prevailing today where young ladies are concerned, it also reveals the character of a girl of exceptional wit, perception and instinctive taste. And all of this at a time when her viewpoint was still naturally naïve and romantic." Mamie’s observations reflected, of course, the perspective of a younger mind, but this mind, too, had been already well educated and suggested the budding of a sweet but sharp intellect. A typical comment from Mamie: "These Abbeys are all in ruins – but I like ruins. They are prettier than things when they are new."

Naïve and romantic, indeed. Along with her version of their travels, Mamie provided a little sister’s jaundiced view of a big sister’s love life. A proper Victorian young lady kept her emotions in check and her thoughts to herself – even with a younger sister, it would seem. Comparing entries day-by-day, it became clear that Ada was a very private person, particularly in matters of the heart. Mamie, and apparently the rest of the family, interpreted this as a fundamental, inviolable coldness on Ada’s part. Of course, we by now know better.

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My box included no diaries or journals covering the two years from June, 1877, through mid-1879; Mamie’s diaries provided valuable primary source material for this period. The family’s travels could now be sketched in nicely.

According to Mamie, the family left Paris in mid-June, 1877, traveling first to Trouville, where they took up residence on the coast of Normandy at the Hotel Rôches Noires for a month. It was during this time that Lucy engaged the services of a French governess for the children, one Mlle. Eugénie Quillard whom the children called Nini. Nini, Mamie reported, "had occupied a similar position with Lady Munster in England, and with the Countess Koutouzoff in St. Petersburg." Interestingly enough, Nini’s niece, Margaret Quatremain, would one day become governess to Ada’s own daughter, Marion.                                     

Lucy Ames, her four children, Nini and Adeline, the maid, journeyed on to Germany and Switzerland: to Cologne, up the Rhine to Wiesbaden, Frankfurt-am-Main, Heidelberg, Baden Baden and Schaffhausen, then to Zurich, Ragaz, the Righi Kulm, Lucerne, through the Brunig Pass to Giessbach, Interlaken, Grindelwalk, Thonne, Berne, and Lausanne. Here they settled for the winter of 1877-78, renting the Château de Coppet, now called the Château des Tourelles, in Ouchy just outside Lausanne on Lake Geneva. Mamie remembered an English tutor coming in every morning; there were also French and music lessons. Lucy or Nini read aloud to the children during the evenings.

The following summer was spent touring northern Italy, Lake Como, Lake Lugano and Venice, where the family moved into the still famous Hotel Danieli. After a time, they moved on to Trieste, then to Vienna and Carlsbad in Austria.

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Mamie’s diary picked up again in Berlin in September, 1878, where she and Ada were placed in a school run by the Fräuleins Lemcke. Tante Gretchen and Tante Clio ("tante" being German for "aunt"), two "maiden ladies" who took in English speaking girls desiring to acquire proficiency in the German language, also tutored German-speaking day students in English – young gentlemen of the nobility, for the most part, primarily officers in training at the Kriegsakademie, the War College, Germany’s equivalent of West Point.

Mamie described the school thus: "They [the sisters Lemcke] had a small private school, which offered a homelike environment, and certain social contacts, which were considered advantageous. It was situated at 73 Grossbeerenstrasse, in a pleasant apartment. The salon and dining room were heated by very large white-tiled porcelain stoves, reaching almost to the ceiling. The bedrooms had no heat, but by this time we had become inured to chilly apartments, as central heating was practically unknown in Europe at that time. There were only three other girls in the school, Violet Cass from New York; Marguerite Quatremain, the niece of our governess, of whom we were very fond; and also a niece of Frl. Lemcke." [There were actually several other students as well.] Music and singing lessons for the girls were provided by Herr Karl Schäeffer (upon whom the girls conferred the pet name of "Schäefferchen"). The Lemckes provided tuition in German grammar, literature and history. Instruction in drawing and painting was provided by instructors who also come in expressly for the purpose.

φ

The family visited St. Petersburg, Russia, during the Christmas holidays of 1878-79. Outdoors it was forty below zero; in the apartment the family leased at the Hotel d’Europe, Mamie noted, rooms were kept at eighty above.

 "As my sister Ada was now practically what we called ‘a young lady’ in those days," Mamie continued her narrative, "my mother decided she would again take part in social life, which she had avoided doing to any extent up to the present time on account of poor health and a natural disinclination.

"Before leaving America she [their mother] had been given personal letters of introduction to the most important US ambassadors in Europe by President Grant and also General Sherman, but it was only in Russia that she made any use of them.

Edwin Stoughton

"Our minister in St. Petersburg was at that time Mr. Edwin Stoughton, who, with his wife Mrs. Stoughton and his niece Louise Stoughton, lived in great style at the American Embassy and entertained lavishly. [Mr. Stoughton’s card was tucked in one of Ada’s journals, identifying him as an "Envoyé Extraordinaire et Ministre Plenipotentiare" of the United States of America in Russia.]

"The Stoughtons were indeed charming to our family, and in fact seemed proud to show the Russians two such beautiful and distinguished compatriots as my mother and my sister, and were untiring in their efforts to open all doors and make their stay a success.

"My sister was just 17 years old, and was considered the most beautiful girl who had been in St. Petersburg for many a day. She was called ‘The American Pearl’ and created quite a sensation. There were naturally many suitors for her hand, but my mother was extremely opposed to ‘foreign marriages,’ and frowned on such a possibility.

"Among Ada’s admirers was a delightful young Russian nobleman whom everybody called by his ‘petit nom" Sacha [this was a young gentleman by the name of Count Alexander von Adlerberg (1860-1955); his calling card reads "Alexandre d’Adlerberg," and identifies him as an officer in the elite Preobrajensky Guards]. Although Ada remained unmoved by his devotion, Sacha quite went to my own school-girl head, and I regretted that I was only 13 years old, and could not have a go at him myself."

Later, Mamie would write: "Just after my return from Russia I thought so much of dear old Sacha. I pity you, dear old fellow. I think I was more in love with him than Ada. Next month he is going to pass by Berlin, and he has written Mama to ask permission to see Sis. I hope Mama will allow him. He has not much pleasure now, poor dear."

Ada will have much to tell us on the subject of Sasha...

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"We had a regular guide," Mamie continue, "who took us out every day, and we ‘improved our minds’ while my mother and sister frequented ‘le grand monde’ and had a gay time.

"A royal wedding, that of the Grand Duchess Anastasia, took place that winter, to which my mother and Ada were invited."

Alexander II

An historical aside: the rule of Alexander II, liberator of forty million Russian serfs, was drawing to its tumultuous end as Lucy brought her children to St. Petersburg that winter of 1878-79. Revolutionaries would make constant attempts on the czar’s life, finally succeeding in his assassination in 1881. Twenty years of chaos, nihilism and revolution provided the backdrop for Ada’s season "at court."

Ada and her mother stayed on in St. Petersburg into February, 1879, then Ada returned to Berlin and her mother to America, to be absent that entire summer. The Lemckes took charge of the Ames children for the summer, a villa in Schweizermühle, Saxony, having been engaged for the purpose. In April, 1879, Mamie first mentioned a wedding that would soon be taking place.

"The older girls of the school with one of the Frl. Lemcke had received an invitation to attend the wedding of the daughter of Frau von Armin. As this family belonged to the ‘haute noblesse’ [the high nobility] and had immense estates in Schwedt, and as the festivities would last at least 4 or 5 days, our household was naturally much excited over the prospect.

"The preparations were arduous and exacting, as each guest was expected to contribute something in the way of entertainment to the occasion.

"It has been arranged that in the place of Violet, Ada and Margot will go to the wedding of Frau von Armin’s daughter! As Violet had not been very good or polite lately, and as the wedding is on Sunday, she is not going. Her parents will not allow her to go to a party on Sunday."

φ

 
We now rejoin a decidedly more mature, worldlier Ada, as she takes up her journal in the fall of 1879.

　

Never did the moment give more in return: October - December 1876

Monday, October 2, 1876. School begins but not the classes, as not all the girls have come. Introduced to Soffie Maud Fythnan—very nice.
 
Tuesday, October 3, 1876. Shall not write any more regularly as school life is too stupid.
 
Friday, December 22, 1876. Mamie and I have left school to spend the holidays of two weeks with Mama. Heigh ho!   
 
Monday, December 25, 1876. CHRISTMAS!!! Mama gave me my watch which I will never willingly part with!!! What a jolly time of it! First Mama, Uncle Nat, Nattie Harris & I went to American chapel as was very right and proper. Then a little shopping. Then home where Alice Kinney was waiting to see us and spent day and night. We breakfasted very pleasantly at 12 with Aunt Lou, Charlie, Mama, Genl. Harris, Nat, Alice, Mamie, Henry, Edgar & I, & Monte. At night we dined at table d’hôtel and oh! such fun, such fun! We were all “tight,” by the way, though we swore never to tell and poor Alice, in one of her “boozy” fits threw herself on the sofa & sobbed, declaring she wanted to go home that very minute (she lives in Cincinnati, America) &c &c. Then, when we had all somewhat recovered, we had acting in Genl. Harris’s parlor. Alice slept that night with Nat & me and we kicked up every sort of roar (to be expressive). Next morning Alice left us, much to our chagrin. 

                                                                               ~

I shall try to gather up in a few words one of the happiest times in my life. It is long afterwards now but those delicious days lie still, bright spots in my memory, so bright… It was the Christmas and New Year’s holiday for us and we spent it at the Splendide Hotel in Paris (dear Paris) with Aunt Lou, Charlie, Mary Behring, Genl. Harris, Nathalie Harris, Monte and ourselves five—I must not forget either Dr. Andrei who at that time and long since has been a true & devoted friend to us all. 

How shall I say we spent our days, which seemed to fly on wings of joy? Was it not one continual buying of presents, going to operas, walking the boulevards at night, sending Uncle Nat for “bonbons” &c &c? We triedto banish from our minds that all this was to end up with our mother’s going to Italy. We gave ourselves up to the moment and never did the moment give more in return. 

The Scanlans of St. Louis were in Paris—their 4 boys (very nice, innocent sort of fellows) whose names were Church (but the younger of which we called Chapel for distinction)—their boys came to see us, Nat & me—in their honor, we sang for them and accompanied ourselves on the piano—a few lines still run in my memory, something like “Young Snapps, he broke his straps, and flew right up to Heaven” &c. The boys were highly edified and were somewhat precipitate in their praises thereof—but we enjoyed it at all events. The boys were to start for school in Germany the next morning and after tender but decidedly lengthened adieux (they kept us standing a half hour on the stairs to say goodbye) they left us—to laugh very probably at their eccentric entertainment and to sigh at being obliged to put a long distance between themselves and two such charming young damsels. Dear Nattie Harris—she is (as she herself does not deny) as full of effervescence as a champagne bottle and equally difficult to be contained. I like to see fun going on around me, though often my propriety forbids participation, and I did feel compelled once or twice to reprove Nattie & my younger sister for sundry performances such as throwing chestnuts at the “cabbys” from the hotel windows, a divertissement [diversion] which seemed very much to delight their overflowing spirits.  

There was in the same hotel a young American masculine who sometimes condescended to honor us with his presence at the opera & on the boulevards after dark. He was a dear, dark, sentimental, soft, handsome, dreamy riché alors [rich then] boy who was not fond of hearing himself talk and whom I have known to sit a whole evening without opening his “blessed mouth,” with his great eyes staring into vacancy. However we made the most of him, Nat & I; he was all we had and I am even inclined to think there were a few tender passages between this romantic personage and my friend Nat. But “no tales out of school.” 

Why were we so happy, so unreservedly happy? Did we forget we were on foreign shores amongst strangers and that across the Atlantic lay our home, in every sense of that sweet word—our home where so many joyful Christmases had been spent before? Yes. I am afraid, for the short space of that winter holiday, we did forget—much—and Paris wore a bright, familiar aspect for us. And its people, its throngs of pleasure seekers, touched a chord of sympathy in our hearts and their interests were our interests—and thoughts of our country entered only in our prayers. 

Only for the moment however—such things do not last and we were waked up rudely from our brief December dream. Some dear one’s departure for Italy numbed all pleasures for a while and left us alone and lonely. [In an entry dated 9 February 1877, Mamie’s diary, of which you will hear more in the next chapter, suggests that Genl. Harris is a love interest of their mother. “I am so lonely, “ Mamie tell us. “Mama is in Italy, and I just feel like crying, and that gentleman who is in the party likes Mama pretty much I think. My goodness, I hope she won’t marry him. I don’t want a new Papa, we get on very well just the way we are.”] At the Opera to hear William Tell—Genl. Harris, Natalie, Frank Sunderland, Alice Kinney & I. “Bonbons!” [Stitched to the page, a bonbon fork engraved “Café Glacier Napolitain.”]

The girls are lovely: September 1876

Friday, September 1, 1876. Mama has made arrangements to hire carriage by month—much better plan. Went out to Jardin des Plants & Notre Dame & over old Paris. Had a very pleasant drive. Piano came today—a very good one & acceptable to the utmost.
 
Saturday, September 2, 1876. Went to Hotel des Invalides, the Pantheon, & drove in the Bouchards. Saw the Pantheon which is a very handsome church with the tombs of a number of great men such as Rousseau & Voltaire.
 

The Bois de Boulogne, by Toulouse-Lautrec

Sunday, September 3, 1876. Went out to St. Denis about 6 miles from Paris where we saw the tombs of all the Kings & Queens of France from Dagobert to Louis XVIII. Saw also Marie Antoinette’s & Louis XVI’s crown & a great many other old relics. Rode in the Bois de Boulogne [the most fashionable park in Paris, where the notables of the day would ride and drive, as much to be seen as to see], where we saw a great many handsome turnouts. Went in the morning to an American Episcopal chapel in Rue Bayard—rector John Morgan. Liked it so much.  
Monday, September 4, 1876. Mama, Monte & I went to the Bon Marché shopping—Bon Marché is a splendid store—everything very handsome & remarkably cheap. Monte & I went for walk in the Champs Elyseès where we saw Mr. Solomon, who came over on the ship with us.
 
Tuesday, September 5, 1876. Hired a new carriage from another stable today—did a little shopping. Ordered two dresses for Mame & me at the Magasin de la Pont—to be finished Tuesday.
 
Wednesday, September 6, 1876. Went to the Palace of the Luxembourg where we saw some exquisite paintings & sculpture—a lovely picture of “Virginia” by Bertrand was beautiful. Henry & Edger started to school today to M. Bauden as day scholars.
 
Thursday, September 7, 1876. Shopping in the morning and to the “Palais de l’Industrie” in the evening.
 
Friday, September 8, 1876. Monte, Mame & I went shopping in the morning and to the zoological gardens afterwards with the rest of the family. Underclothing came.
 
Saturday, September 9, 1876. Rained all day. Piano taken away. Harry took lunch and Mr. Catlin, his friend, came after while & they staid a long time. Catlin is very young & handsome. Greta Pomeroy came & says her family are in the city—glad to hear it.
 

Museum of the Castle, St. Germain

Sunday, September 10, 1876. All went in the carriage to St. Germain—a lovely spot. We went in the Museum of the Castle which contained old Gaulic & Roman relics. Saw James II of England’s tomb in the church at St. Germain. Rained some. Mr. Washburn called again but we were out.
 
Monday, September 11, 1876. Monte & I were shopping all morning. Went to Hentenaar’s, 26 Rue 4th Septembre, and

The Palais Garnier

saw the most superb dresses. In the evening Harry & Mr. Catlin called & took dinner & afterwards took Monte, Mame & me to the Palais Garnier to see Faust. Grand Opèra.
 
Tuesday, September 12, 1876. Greta & her maid & Mamie & I went to the Champs Elyseès to several puppet shows and wooden horses—had a gay time.
 
Wednesday, September 13, 1876. Mama & Monte went out looking for apartments & Greta & Mary (her maid), Mamie & I went again to the Champs. Mama & Monte rode in the Bois in the carriage.
 
Thursday, September 14, 1876. Mama & Monte out again apartment hunting and found some that suited very well. Greta, Mary, Mamie, Henry, Edgar & I went on the Champs and were caught in the dreadful rain—had to jump into cab & go home.

54 Ave. du Roule, Neuilly, today

Monday, September 18, 1876. Breakfasted at 8.30. The girls are lovely—7 parlor boarders including Mamie & me—& about 8 French at present. [Note: Mamie’s diaries for this same period were published in 1936 under the title She Wrote It All Down. Mamie does a much better job describing the school run by Mme. Bazault, which was located at 54 Avenue du Roule, Neuilly, Paris, in her own diary: “Ada and I occupied a bedroom together, furnished with two white iron beds, a washstand, a couple of chairs and a chiffonier. We each had one candle to light us at night. If we sat up too late reading, which of course was ‘défendu’ [not allowed], the candle would sputter out and the femme de chambre [chambermaid] would have to be placated next morning, so that she would not divulge our disobedience. … Among these older girls who were Ada’s particular friends, I remember Flora Low from California, Alice Kinney from Cincinnati and Maria Milbank. There were innumerable ‘crushes’ existing in this little group, and lifelong friendships sworn, which were mutually dissolved when a new and more absorbing affection would sweep away the remnants of the former ‘crush’!”]
 
Tuesday, September 19, 1876. School life just the same—always & ever.
 
Saturday, September 30, 1876. Monte came for us & went shopping to Bon Marchè & staid all night at home with Mama.

France a beautiful country: August 16 - 31, 1876

Albert Memorial, Edinburgh

Wednesday, August 16, 1876. Was waked up at 8.30 A.M. by the booming of cannon to announce the Queen’s arrival to unveil the Albert Memorial tomorrow. Went after breakfast to the Antiquarian Museum & National Picture Gallery. Then after coming to hotel & lunching, we took a tramway (street car) & went to Portobello, a charming little watering place on the sea-shore. Came back home at 4 P.M. Took a walk this evening to see the decorations of the city.
 
Thursday, August 17, 1876. “The Unveiling of the Albert Memorial by The Queen”!  We went at 2 P.M. to our windows that we had engaged to see the Queen & Prince Leopold & Duke of Connaught & Princess Beatrice. [Albert’s untimely death of typhoid fever in 1861, at the age of 42, was mourned by all, and until her own death in 1901, Victoria never fully recovered by the loss of her “beloved Albert.” Cities and towns throughout the empire rushed to commemorate statues to his memory; the dedication of the statue that Ada and her family witnessed was in Edinburgh.]
 
Friday, August 18, 1876. We started by the 10.30 A.M. train to London this morning in a Pullman drawing room car. Mrs. Pomeroy and family left by the 10 A.M. train for York. Very natural to be on the Pullman cars again. Have as yet rec’d no letters from home. Arrived at 10 P.M. (behind time) at London. At Fenton’s Hotel, 63 St. James St.
 
Saturday, August 19, 1876. Took a carriage at 10 A.M. & went all around city, to St. Paul’s, Westminster Palace & the Houses of Parliament & Westminster Abbey, Hyde Park &ccc. Took dinner in our private sitting room at 7 P.M. Left note at Mr. Bell’s office that we were in town. Got 6 letters from home. Glorious!!
 
Sunday, August 20, 1876. Took a carriage and went to Templar’s Church to attend service but lo! & behold! it was closed, so we went to Westminster where they had a very nice service and holy communion. Have heard nothing from Bell.
 
Monday, August 21, 1876. Mama & Monte went out to try & get better apartments. Were very, very successful at Royal Cambridge Hotel, 12a George St. in Hanover Square. Went to see Mde. Tussaud’s Wax Works—perfectly grand—saw block on which Marie Antoinette & Louis XVI were beheaded.
 

The Crystal Palace, London

Tuesday, August 22, 1876. Went out shopping all morning and met Mr. Pomeroy & Mr. Burnet who had just come from Edinburgh. Their family was at Fenton’s, in the same apartment which we had occupied whilst there. Also met one of the passengers whom we had met on the ship, McKuaine, the Australian—greeted us most cordially. Went in afternoon to the Crystal Palace, a ride by rail of one quarter of an hour. Palace very splendid—some beautiful & very celebrated paintings.
 
Wednesday, August 23, 1876. All went to the Tower—very interesting. Saw Raleigh’s prison, old block on which Lord

Kilmarnock &c &c were executed & place where Mary Queen of Scots, Lady Jane Grey & Anne Bolyn were beheaded—Traitor’s Gate over 600 years old &c &c. Went then over London Bridge to Zoological Gardens & staid till 6 P.M., very much pleased. Monkeys were splendid. Came home & Mama & the Countess de Montaign sent letter from Grant [President Ulysses S. Grant, a friend and neighbor from St. Louis] to Pierrepont, the Minister of U.S., who is in our house. They called on them—there is a young gent. 17—son of Pierrepont. Went to British Museum & saw the original Magna Charta.
 
Thursday, August 24, 1876. Mama & Monte have gone out. Mamie gone to Greta’s at Fenton’s Hotel. Mama has just come back with the news that Fred Bell, other brother & mother are at Brighton and will not be back till Monday, Mr. Bell informed her. My new seal skin cloak came—much pleased. Also my ulster for traveling. Went to Windsor Castle by rail—about three-quarters of hour. Castle splendid. Saw all state apartments & chapel of Geo. III. Mama did not go to Windsor.
 
Friday, August 25, 1876. Started at 11 A.M. for Paris. Reached Folkestone, from where we sailed across channel at 1.30 P.M. & took boat (rather small) for Bologne, France. Had a comparatively calm passage of two hours, but I came just within an ace of being quite sea-sick. Reached Bologne at 3.30 & took train for Paris. France a beautiful country. Arrived at Paris at 8.20 P.M. & had a very smooth time with the customhouse officers, who opened but one trunk & then let us go. Proceeded then to Hotel Liverpool, 11 Rue Castiglione.
 

l'Arc de Triomphe, by Antoine Blanchard

Saturday, August 26, 1876. Breakfasted at nine. Pleased quite with hotel but every one recommends keeping house in apartments. Saw Mr. Seligman (whom we met on ship) at his office. Very cordial & nice. Drove round Paris a little, through l’Arc de Triomphe in Champs Elyseés. I feel now that I can say with every one from my heart—“Belle, belle Paris.”  It is indeed the loveliest city in all the world!!! No letters here for us.
 
Sunday, August 27, 1876. Started to go to an American chapel but not finding one, we went to the famous Madeleine. Church grand & music very grand also, but it does not seem much like a house of worship & I did not like the service. It being a great fête [holiday] day at Versailles when all the fountains play, including the L’eau de Neptune, we ordered a carriage to go there but it came too late & instead, we went to another fête at St. Cloud & saw the Palace in ruins. Very beautiful grounds. Went at night on the Champs Elysees.
 
Monday, August 28, 1876. Today we have decided upon apartments in Avenue Josephine. Very roomy & nice well-kept house. Also registered at John Munroe & Co. No letters for us but found out that Harry Ames was at Grand Hotel. Went there & left card & then visited several schools. Liked best Mde. Bascans. Also went to M. Sevoin’s school for boys—where George Derby went. George’s furlough is up today at 2 P.M. Came home and found that Harry had called—too bad not to see him.
 
Tuesday, August 29, 1876. Moved to our apartments in the morning—55 Avenue Josephine. Very nice keeping house—two girls, Adelle & Marie, & Monte keep house. Harry called—he is not much changed, better looking I think—side whiskers, he does not go home till October. Very nice because we need a beau besides my mammoth brother. Took a walk & went to the top of l’Arch de Triumph to see the sun-set—beautiful view.
 
Wednesday, August 30, 1876. Mama and I took cab & went to Monroe’s where we found two letters for us & one for me from my precious Lily. It did my heart good to get such a dear, loving letter from her. Went to several schools also. Mde. Tabol’s—very nice indeed. Inventory taken of the apartments. Rainy. Mr. Washburn, U.S. Minister, called but did not see him.
 

Cirque des Champs Elyseés

Thursday, August 31, 1876. Monte & I took cab & went to Rothschilds, Seligmans & Monroes for letters. Found two at Monroe’s. All except me went out at about 2 P.M. to decide upon Mde. Cordier’s school & to ride—did not get back till 6.30 P.M. After dinner at 8.30 P.M. we went to the Cirque des Champs Elyseés—a very good circus but not so fine as our American ones.